A couple days of the deep freeze could have severely damaged gardens across Puget Sound. Below 20 degrees is not normal for the region.

Plants on the edge of hardiness and those hardy in less severe Zone 8 winters may have suffered.

But don't get out and chop things willy-nilly. It will be necessary to wait until spring to assess the full effects of the November deep freeze. Fortunately, it was only a couple days.

Those who used the abundance of fallen leaves as insulating mulch will be far less affected.

The record-breaking rain in November has prepared the ground for transplanting trees and shrubs.

In previously articles, gardeners were cautioned to wait until the soil had been well irrigated before transplanting. That condition has been more than met. So, it's time to move or plant most trees and shrubs, along with spring blooming perennials and ferns.

Not all trees and shrubs should be moved in the fall, however.

Oak, willow, hemlock, fir, birch, American yellowwood and others with deep taproots and non-fibrous root systems should be transplanted in the spring.

Conifers should be transplanted earlier rather than later in the fall. And, it goes without saying, that only healthy trees and shrubs should be transplanted at any time of the year.

The rules for planting trees and shrubs have changed in recent years. Do not dig a hole to China. Instead, planting holes should be wider than deep.

Research shows that most trees do not root deeply, but rather widely.

When planting a new tree, make the hole only as deep as the root ball, but twice as wide. Do not amend the soil. Trees and shrubs need to become accustomed to the native soil as quickly as possible to thrive.

Back fill with native soil and do not stomp on the soil to secure the tree. Doing so will only compact the soil making it harder for it to root into the new location. Instead, tamp the soil gently and water in several times to remove air pockets.

Stake the tree if necessary and remember to remove the ties as soon as possible to avoid damage to your tree.

If you are transplanting, dig the new hole first. Then, dig around the existing tree as far from the trunk as humanly possible to move: three feet is a good rule of thumb.

Avoid cutting large roots whenever possible. Trench around the tree at that point and then undermine the tree. This method will secure the most feeder roots.

As with a new tree, dig the transplant's new home as deep as the existing root ball and wider, following the same instructions.

Don't fertilize until the tree is showing active growth and only if it indicates a need for additional nutrition. Keeping the feeding regimen lean will lead to a more pest free, drought resistant specimen.

All the instructions for trees apply equally to shrubs.

As long as the soil is not soggy wet, get out there and plant those bulbs. They need a serious cold period to trigger the best blooming in the spring.

Plant in large groups and layer small bulbs on top of the larger tulips and daffodils. Experiment with colors: be bold and unexpected.

Yellow jonquils and blue grape hyacinth is a classic combination that always pleases. But don't limit yourself to the tried and true.

As long as the ground is not frozen or soggy, continue to plant and transplant spring blooming perennials. If you are dividing overgrown clumps, don't over divide. Larger clumps always look better and have a greater chance of success whatever the winter may bring.

Don't neglect the front entrance to the house for a chance to make an entry garden in a pot.

Differing textures of evergreen will carry your entry through the winter and you'll be able to plant those critters in the garden when it's time to change to more color.

Window boxes are another opportunity to keep the garden exciting over the winter. Use cut branches of evergreens and berries to make a cheerful display. The humidity outdoors will keep them fresh for months.

E-mail inquiries and suggestions to lazy.gardener@comcast.net.