Eating Out in Ballard
Tue, 05/08/2007
Search for burgers of note
By Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson
Talk to anybody in Ballard, and they'll tell you all about their favorite burger joint. Everyone's got an opinion, and the loyalty can run deep. As we waded into the vast world of Ballard burgers, our original goal of crowning Ballard's best burger evolved into a more modest "Ballard Burgers of Note" approach.
We narrowed down the many Ballard choices using proven scientific principles of food reviewing. In the end, the burgers left standing rated well as we looked at meat quality, bun treatment, and the ever-important "Grill-to-Lip Interval" (GTLI). This measure, described here for the first time in any newspaper, rewards establishments for reducing the length of time from when the burger comes off the grill to when it begins its wondrous and interactive journey through the human alimentary canal. Many factors can lengthen this measure, including cumbersome presentation, or even downright tardiness in moving the precious and protein-packed cargo tableside.
Hattie's Hat
5231 Ballard Ave. N.W.
Bar (Kids OK)
At Hattie's, you'll find their 1/3 pound deluxe burger with all the trimmings a bargain at $7.25 (fries included). With the grilled bun, enough lettuce to qualify as a salad, and solid sauce-work, this burger delivers the goods. Top-notch fries and the zesty chipotle mayonnaise keep it special. Top it off with the friendliest bartenders in town and a nice list of wines by the glass list and you've got a winner. GTLI: Good, with burger juices still present for first bite.
Scooter's Burgers and Shakes
5802 24th Ave. N.W.
Drive-In
Scooter's attracts a varied crowd: middle-aged burger munchers like us; stylish Euro-type women with henna-hued hair reading high-brow lit over a patty melt; high school students hanging out; and soccer clans in full regalia. On a sunny day, the rickety red picnic table outside overlooking the QFC parking lot and the ever-present scaffolding of NOMA are strangely inviting, even if we felt in danger of collapsing the sagging table slats. Here you get your deluxe burger for $3.89 with a small order of fries for $1.44. If you don't eat the fries when they're hot and fresh, you've got no one to blame but yourself, because that's how they are delivered, right out of the cooker. The meat is juicy, thin, and tender. GTLI: Short, with burger spraying hot juices with first bite. Heads Up!
Barking Dog Alehouse
705 N.W. 70th Ave.
Tavern (Kids OK)
At $10.25, the Alehouse Burger claims top honor for priciest burger, but this hand formed little son-of-a-gun packs a flavorful wallop. The burger is accompanied by waffle fries to truly believe in. This is a "put it together yourself" presentation, served open and bare, showcasing the super-fresh lettuce and tomato. While this allows for more individualized saucing, it sadly lengthens the Grill-to-Lip-Time-Interval, reducing the visceral excitement that comes from picking up a hot, ready-to go burger and going right at it. GTLI: longer than average, with time wasted putting together burger modules.
Mike's Chili Parlor
1447 N.W. Ballard Way
Bar (No Kids)
Stunningly homey and unpretentious, Mike's Chili Parlor feels more like Akron or Milwaukee than Seattle (in a good way), or at least what we imagine Akron or Milwaukee to feel like. The service here is fast, friendly and free of hoo-haw. Mike's Deluxe Burger is $5, with a gargantuan platter of old-school fries an additional $1.50. A perfectly grilled bun, circa Leave it To Beaver, cushions a hand-formed patty noteworthy for its extra-beefy flavor, courtesy of Mike's unique and mysterious burger sauce. And when was the last time you ate a burger in a parlor? GTLI: mere seconds, with the burger rushed to your table, ready for immediate oral engagement. This burger comes hot, and begs to be handled roughly.
Ballard Brothers
5305 15th Ave. N.W.
Restaurant
In their spanking new location in the old Skippers, Ballard Brothers offer a vast array of novelty burgers (Guacamole, Hawaiian, etc), but the real champ is the basic Naked Burger. It comes with everything, including fries, for $5.50, and arrives delightfully prepped, wrapped pretty-as-a-picture in red and white paper. When busy, the cooked-fresh approach can result in a bit of a wait, but they just moved into the heavily portholed space, and are probably still yet to hit their stride. Even with that, our best visit there featured a piping hot sandwich and fries almost still bubbling with hot oil and a light dusting of tossed salt. Our table grew very quiet as we worked over the juicy fare with great gusto. GTLI: Very short. Burger, meet your new home.
Patricia Devine and Jim Anderson may be reached via bnteditor@robinsonnews.com