Norse biker aspires to go around the world
Tue, 10/10/2006
Rune Monstad had to ride a bicycle 16,000 to get robbed in Seattle.
Nine months ago Monstad climbed on his mountain bike and pedaled out of Cochabamba, Bolivia, but was robbed 30 minutes after arriving here recently. His wallet, money and passport were taken from his bicycle.
But what compels a man to get onto a bicycle and pedal across two continents and set sights on the entire world?
Monstad calls himself a "Viking Biker," an apt moniker. His willingness to set out into the unknown, exposed to the elements, evokes the spirit of Leif Erikson and other Viking explorers sailing across the North Atlantic in their long boats.
For The 33-year old native of T¿nsberg, Norway, it began with a desire to see more of South America. He'd never spent much time on a bicycle, but after doing an Ironman competition, he "realized, everything's in your head."
"I started in the worst place in the world," Monstad said in an interview. In the first two weeks, he climbed 16,000 feet through the Andes in winter, and had to fight altitude sickness while dodging massive commercial trucks. The drivers would cross themselves when they saw him, praying not to hit him.
"It was bad."
The trip improved, though, and Monstad thought, why not go around the world? His family was surprised when they heard. His girlfriend of three months broke off the relationship, but "it wasn't serious." Monstad misses his two nephews and two nieces.
"Sometimes I think 'why am I doing this?'" said Monstad. "Some days it's bad wind, bad weather, but you have so many good times, that's why I do this."
Countless people, rich and poor alike, have helped him along the way. Meeting him in person, it's easy to see why so many people have offered aid. Capped by a mop of untrained blond hair, his face is friendly and quick to smile. His eyes, punctuated by crows' feet, are inquisitive and earnest.
"When I don't have money, that's when I see the most ... that's how I get to experience the culture," Monstad said. He's financed his trip in large part by working odd jobs along the way. There have been times he's found himself without money and an empty stomach.
"If you're hungry enough, you ask people for food," he said.
Monstad had a close call in Medellin, Colombia, home of the late drug kingpin Pablo Escobar. After a hard day of biking, Monstad was desperate for a place to pitch his tent. Going against his better judgment, he found a spot in a public park in the city. He put his bike inside his tent, crawled in, and went to sleep.
During the night, Monstad awoke suddenly. His tent was shaking violently, and his bike was on top of him.
"My heart stopped," Monstad recalled. "I thought, 'If I die like this, I should at least fight. I have nothing to lose.'" He pushed the bike away, and grabbed the intimidating knife he carries for protection. He sliced open his tent, and jumped out, screaming "like Rambo." Adrenaline was pumping through his veins.
"I felt so strong. It was a panic fight," Monstad said. His assailants ran off. "I never been so happy in my life."
His tent was ruined, though. He's been sleeping in a hammock since. At night, the wind still startles him from time to time.
Monstad visited the Uros' floating islands on Lake Titicaca, and saw the Nazca Lines in Peru. He crossed the Panama Canal, and saw active volcanoes in El Salvador. In Texas, he worked as a ranch hand, and learned pistol shooting. Monstad stopped in New Orleans to help the rebuilding efforts after Hurricane Katrina.
The trip was taking a toll on Monstad's health, and in Kansas he went to a hospital for a literal pain in his butt.
"I had to spend a lot of money, but when the doctor heard about my trip, he did everything for free," Monstad said. "The prescription when I left, 'Buy a softer seat.'"
Monstad followed the doctor's orders and has had no problems since.
Along the way he's gone through nine tires, two wheels, three pumps, and had 99 flat tires. He has a bottle of Jack Daniels to celebrate number 100.
In South and Central America, people cautioned him that North Americans wouldn't care about him. In Bolivia and Peru, people also told him to avoid Colombia, that he'd be kidnapped and held for ransom.
"I never listen to people anymore," Monstad said. "You have to feel it for yourself."
After Seattle, Monstad plans to go to Vancouver, B.C., and ride east across Canada - in the winter.
"I want to test myself," said Monstad.
He plans to stay awhile in Seattle, working to buy extreme weather clothing and equipment, including a new tent and bike repair kit. He also needs contacts in Canada, especially in the interior.
On the Atlantic coast, he plans to get work on a ship bound for Africa. Then onto Asia.
"I promise you I don't go home before I bike the whole world," Monstad said.
And after?
Monstad figures he'll settle down, but is not sure where.
"Maybe I like a lot of places more than Norway," Monstad said.
Right now, Seattle is high on his list.
On the web: Rune Monstad's website: http://www.vikingbikers.com His online diary: http://vikingbikersdiary.blogspot.com/