BalMar
5449 Ballard Ave. N.W.
(206) 297-0500
Open daily 5 p.m. to 2 a.m.
21 and over

Exposed bricks in a beautiful old space set the tenor for this restaurant and lounge. It's airy yet cozy, big enough for a crowd yet intimate enough for a whispered how-do-you-do.

Many architectural features of the original building, which was a department store, have been maintained, and the fine crafted new fixtures fit in artfully.

Seating options abound: comfortable stools, tables, low seating with cushions. Two different and contrasting floors provide a variety of alternatives, including options for smaller groups.

BalMar is spacious, and a second living room to the nearby residents. Pretty glass pieces inlayed into stone counters add style and interest to bar-sitting. Candles burning in the niches of the weathered brick walls create a warm feel.

Lighting is subdued throughout, with more candles on the tables. There's a lot of room behind the bar, so the servers and bartenders don't trip over each other.

But BalMar may need a bigger kitchen: when the upstairs is filled, as on a recent trivia night, it's a long wait for food with only one cook. No matter how hard he worked, he got further behind.

Our ringside seat gave us a great view of a staff working their fannies off to keep up, while retaining a very pleasant style at all times. In fact, one of the servers sprinted down the stairs and out the front door. After brief concern, we were relieved to see her return bearing large bags of frozen fries, still smiling. They won't run out here!

We took advantage of the generous Happy Hour schedule (every day from 5 to 7 p.m., much easier to get to on time without leaving work early) and tried the Seared Ahi Tuna ($5), Roasted Beet and Watercress Salad $4), Grilled Sweet and Sour Calamari ($4), Lamb Slider with caramelized onions and sweet potato chips with garlic-pistachio aioli ($4.50), Grilled Beef Slider with fries and white truffle aioli ($4.50), and Lemongrass Crème Brulee ($6).

Seared ahi, arranged decoratively on a platter over its sauces (wasabi mayonnaise and lime vinaigrette), is a good little bite to start with and is prepared to perfection. The beet and watercress salad is ambitious but a little overshadowed by the orange tang of its vinaigrette, and the sweet and sour sauce on the calamari didn't seem like a match made in heaven.

But the lamb slider contends for the best in town – it is nicely rare, yet sufficiently hot to spark discussion as we each attempted to wrestle the lamb burger away from each other. Next time we'll have to order several.

The beef slider was less fascinating, but still a bargain, and it comes with the delicious fries, thin and crispy.

The delicately flavored Crème Brulee offers an appealing finish without overdoing it, and we're willing to bet the Chocolate Mousse delivers as well.

The trip to the second floor lounge and dining area resembles crossing a stream in the Andes on a suspension bridge. The attractive stairway melds with the other structural characteristics and bestows a focal point for the room.

There is plenty of space for large groups upstairs, with more comfortable and snug seating in the back. With a bartender devoted to that level, travelers to the second floor can settle in for a long night with all needed supplies on hand.

BalMar's sound system is surprisingly good – the music can be heard and conversation can be had at the same time. And the wait staff was sincere and top-notch, comping us our dessert after a lengthy wait.

Know anything we should know? Tell the Ballard Food Police at ballardfoodpolice@gmail.com.