Jim Whittaker, the pioneering mountaineer who became the first American to summit Mount Everest, passed away peacefully on April 7, 2026, at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. He was 97 years old and surrounded by his family at the time of his passing. While Whittaker gained global fame for his high-altitude exploits, he remained deeply rooted in the community where his journey began: West Seattle.

Roots in Arbor Heights

Born on February 10, 1929, Whittaker was raised in the Arbor Heights neighborhood of West Seattle alongside his twin brother, Lou. His passion for the outdoors was ignited during his teens in the 1940s while active in the Boy Scouts and Explorer Scouts. He was a proud member of the West Seattle High School Class of 1947, and his formative years in the Pacific Northwest—spent technical climbing with The Mountaineers—laid the groundwork for a life of unprecedented adventure.

A Historic Ascent and Industry Leadership

Whittaker’s name was etched into history on May 1, 1963, when he and Sherpa Nawang Gombu reached the summit of Mount Everest. Despite running out of oxygen near the peak, their success made Whittaker a national icon. This achievement had a profound impact on REI, where Whittaker had been the first full-time employee since 1955. Serving as CEO during the 1960s, he helped transform the co-op into a national powerhouse, with revenue exceeding $1 million for the first time in 1964 following the publicity of his Everest climb.

Honored by His Hometown

Whittaker’s connection to West Seattle remained strong throughout his life. In 2017, West Seattle honored his legacy with the opening of "The Whittaker," a prominent apartment complex located on Fauntleroy Way SW. At the age of 88, Whittaker and his wife, Dianne Roberts, attended the grand opening, celebrating a development that serves as a permanent landmark to his local roots. The home where REI really began is still in West Seattle too.

Expeditions and Advocacy

Beyond Everest, Whittaker led the first successful American ascent of K2 in 1978 and organized the 1990 Everest International Peace Climb, which brought together climbers from the U.S., USSR, and China to promote world peace and environmental stewardship. He was also a dedicated advocate for accessibility in the outdoors, citing a 1981 summit of Mount Rainier with ten disabled climbers as one of his proudest achievements.

A Philosophical Legacy

Whittaker was known not only for his physical endurance but for his gentle, philosophical approach to nature. He was an accomplished sailor who spent four years voyaging across the Pacific with his family, and he shared his wisdom through his memoirs, A Life on the Edge.

As the climbing world mourns his passing, Jim Whittaker is remembered as a man of immense humility who helped shape the outdoor identity of the Pacific Northwest and inspired generations to find their own "peaks" to climb.