Dishing the Dirt: Summer in the garden and the living is easy
Mon, 07/18/2011
By Jeff and Eileen Bidwell
In our June column we presented a sound integrated pest management strategy. But by now you may be seeing some unidentifiable creatures emerging from the ground or flying around you. You may feel the urge to study entomology simply to identify them, but take comfort in the fact that some of those UFIs (Unidentified Flying Insects) and ground dwellers are actually beneficial bugs that prey on your unwanted guests.
Because summer arrived late this year, expect delays in some of your flowering plants and shrubs. Elegant hydrangeas, the stars of early summer, will soon be blooming, along with other showy favorites.
Slowly but surely, our edible gardens are growing, too. Corn has reached 6” tall, carrots and beets have tops, beans are sprouting, squash, zucchini and pumpkin vines are spreading, and tomatoes have clusters of bright yellow blossoms and perhaps a small green tomato or two.
Along with your thriving garden come a host of nasty bugs. Weevils, cutworms, maggots and other egg layers may be dwelling among the roots, shoots, leaves, stems and fruit. Many of these pests can be controlled by products containing bacillus thuringiensis (BT), a natural toxin that can be found at garden centers. Read the labels to learn which pests the product will control.
In previous columns we have suggested various traps, sprays and oils to thwart garden pests, but here’s a simple remedy for critters that specifically attack corn. After the silk appears, but just before it turns green, apply a few drops of mineral oil inside the silk to discourage corn borers and gar worms. You can also try applying mineral oil at the base of each plant to prevent cutworms, but protective barriers have shown to be very effective against these extremely destructive pests.
Assuming we have a typical Seattle summer (a little overcast, some rain and a few consecutive days of warm, delightful sun), a healthy garden will need adequate water to avoid becoming stressed and vulnerable to insects and disease. Beginning in August, cut back on water. Deep watering once a week is often good enough, especially for tomatoes. Tomato plants grow stronger and healthier at this time of year, but over watering can cause the skin of the fruit to split, and the common problem known as “cat facing”. The general rule is to water one inch per week, but hot weather may necessitate watering more frequently. And water the roots, not the plants! The leaves on tomato plants should not get wet, lest the entire plant fall prey to an array of nasty diseases.
Tomato experts also recommend removing lower leaves and side shoots to promote good health and vigor, and to produce more flowers and fruit. Do not remove the yellow blossoms during the growing season—this reduces the amount of tomatoes your plant will produce.
Mulching is the best thing for both your vegetable garden and your water bill. This year, our tiny alley garden was one of 17 host gardens in the Sustainable Ballard Edible Garden tour. What visitors saw was a 12’ x 5’ patch with at least eight kinds of tomato plants, three small rows of corn, peppers, garlic, onions, leeks, shallots and summer squash. We mulched the patch with straw, which keeps the soil warmer and holds water inside. Even on the warmest days, one deep watering will suffice. We use less than half the water we would use if we had not mulched. If you can’t find straw or hay, wood chips also make excellent mulch.
Very little else needs to be done in the vegetable garden at this time of year. A young woman once asked us if she could eat all her squash blossoms. Although the blossoms are a true culinary delight, we suggested resisting the temptation to munch on them, since she would never get any squash. We all agreed that a good compromise would be to plant an extra squash plant simply for the delectable blossoms.
Pruning and deadheading are essential summer chores. Deadheading, the removal of spent flowers, encourages the growth of new flowers. Rhodies, lilacs, azaleas, camellias, and other favorites need sprucing up now, and time to prepare for next year’s newly emerging buds, which are hidden behind the spent blooms. Pruning at this time of year should be minimal, just enough to retain the plants’ shape.
Damaged or diseased plants should be removed if they can’t be saved. Samples of diseased plants can be brought to the Master Gardener Clinic at the Ballard Sunday Farmer’s Market. A Master Gardener can either identify the problem or send it to the WSU Extension for closer scrutiny.
For large or difficult projects such as pruning fruit trees or larger trees that may pose a landscape or environmental hazard, we suggest hiring a professional landscaper or arborist. An excellent resource for professional help is Plant Amnesty, which can be contacted at 206-783-9813, or plantamnesty.org.
For expert advice on an extensive array of gardening topics, consult the King County Master Gardeners new website: kingcountymg.org. To locate bulletins published by the WSU Extension, go to pubs.wsu.edu.
At long last, the time has arrived to find your favorite spot in the garden, relax in a comfy lawn chair with a cool glass of lemonade, and enjoy your summer garden.
See you at the Market!
Jeff and Eileen Bidwell are King County Master Gardeners and long-time Ballard residents. You can find the Master Gardener Plant Answer Clinic at the Ballard Sunday Farmers Market every Sunday from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m., May 1st through September 25th.