By Jeff and Eileen Bidwell

Autumn is harvest time, time to pick fruit from trees and vines, harvest and enjoy late summer and fall vegetables, showy sunflowers and gorgeous dahlias, and prepare your garden for the long, rainy winter ahead. On September 12th, we Ballardites were fortunate enough to experience a clear evening, which allowed us the luxury of waxing poetic as we watched the harvest moon rise. Inspiring, huh?

Here’s a summary of fall garden chores:

Lawns
Many of us let our lawns go dormant through the dry season. Lawns should be thatched and aerated in October of every fourth year. Overseed as needed with a blend of rye and fine or creeping fescue. Rake the seed into the soil, mow twice a month, and mulch.

Autumn is the best time to fertilize for healthy lawn growth, which protects the lawn against invasive weeds and moss. Apply an organic, slow release lawn fertilizer 3-1-2 (N-P-K--Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium) one pound per 1,000 square feet. Water thoroughly after fertilizing, then once a week until the heavy fall rain begins. Mow once during November, and in December, post a sign that says “Keep Off the Grass” until winter is over.

Harvesting Late Summer Crops
This is the time to enjoy the vibrant colors and fresh flavors that symbolize autumn in the Northwest. Most veggies will let you know when it’s time to pick them. Tomatoes turn red or yellow, carrots turn orange, squash turns yellow, zucchini and cucumbers turn green, and peppers turn various shades of all of the above. Although summer squash should be picked when fruit is young and tender, winter squash should remain on the vine until the rind is hard.

Many of us are left wondering what to do with all the green tomatoes still on the vine. Pick only those that are pale green or have pale green and yellowish stripes. Bring them indoors, place them in a cardboard box, and store them in a cool, dry, dark place where the warmth will hasten the ripening process. The fruit will still taste great. Tomatoes that have turned a deeper shade of green will not ripen.

Winter Gardening
Winter gardens are a great way to extend gardening season. Most winter crops should be planted in July and August. Beans, beets, Swiss chard, carrots, lettuce and radishes should be sown in mid-July for an autumn harvest, which can be as late as the first frost. For a more complete list and details, look for Comprehensive Horticulture Fact Sheets #18 and #41 on the Master Gardener website, kingcountyMG.org.
To round out your vegetable garden, plant garlic, onion, shallots and chives in October. Garlic will be ready by next summer. Onion sets can be planted anytime in the fall for happy eating throughout the winter.

Putting Your Veggie Garden to Bed
After the harvest, it’s time to mulch, mulch, mulch! A thick layer of organic mulch protects our gardens from the harsh winter rains that compact the soil, leach nutrients and encourage weed seeds to germinate.

Another earth-friendly practice is planting a winter cover crop such as red clover or winter wheat. Green manure mulches such as legumes do what other organic mulches do, with the additional benefit of preventing nitrogen, an overused fertilizer with damaging effects, from leaching into the soil.

Shrubs and Perennials
Early fall is an ideal time for moving shrubs and transplanting or thinning perennials. It’s also a good time to divide overgrown plants, deadhead to remove spent blossoms, and remove dead leaves.

Plant new perennials and shrubs now. Planting, transplanting, dividing and thinning perennials while the soil is still warm offers the best chance to survive the winter and become next year’s gems.

Choosing the right location is essential to success when transplanting established plants or planting new ones. Dig a hole larger than the root ball. When transplanting, dig around the root system, and be careful not to damage roots. Water the hole before planting, place the plant in the center, and fill in around the base with a good planting mix, taking extra care not to crowd or bury the stem. Don’t amend the soil when you plant a shrub.

Moving larger shrubs can be handled the same way as your smaller plants.

Dividing and thinning requires a steady hand. Begin by separating the root ball, then cut with an equal amount of roots on each side. Divided plants need to be planted quickly in the same way as other perennials.

After your transplants have settled in, watch for signs of transplant shock. Many plants do not like to be moved, and may show a lack of vitality or die back. Continue watering thoroughly, but do not over water. In time, they should become accustomed to their new digs.

Now is the time to fertilize perennials and shrubs, so they can establish healthy root systems when the rainy season comes. Always water thoroughly after adding fertilizer.

Spring Bulbs
Folks who are noticing an enticing array of spring bulbs in the local nurseries are asking “Can I plant bulbs now?” Because the soil temperatures are still too warm, we recommend planting them October through mid-November when the soil cools down. If you truly can’t resist buying bulbs now to get the best selection, store them in a dry, dark place where temperatures are below 50 degrees. Avoid storing them in the refrigerator.
More on spring bulbs in our October column.

Sadly, the gardening season has come to an end. Sunday, September 25th is the season’s final Master Gardener Clinic at Ballard Farmer’s Market. It has been a pleasure to have visited with more than 1,000 of our neighbors who share our passion for gardening. Most importantly, we wish to thank Judy, Loretta and the entire gang at the market—they have been extraordinary hosts.

See you at the Market next Spring!

Jeff and Eileen Bidwell are King County Master Gardeners and long-time Ballard residents. You can find the Master Gardener Plant Answer Clinic at the Ballard Sunday Farmers Market every Sunday from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m., May 1st through September 25th.