Dishing the Dirt: Ready, Set, Grow!
Fri, 03/16/2012
By Jeff and Eileen Bidwell
Hope springs eternal, as the saying goes. As we write our first column of 2012 we are still in the hold of winter’s grim, gray grip. But by the time you read this we will be basking in dazzling spring colors and the Cubs will still be in first place.
Just outside our front door, the fragrant flowers of Daphne Odora are beginning to open, and lavender, white and yellow crocus have appeared in our herb garden. Strolling through Ballard, we witness more promising signs of spring: Camellias, rhododendron, azaleas, forsythia and pieris Japonica are in bloom, fruit trees are blossoming, and daffodils and tulips are pushing their way into the light.
For us, the Northwest Flower and Garden Show in early February supplied a needed dose of optimism. We drew inspiration from the wide variety of display gardens, each with its own unique theme creating its own island of beauty, peace and tranquility.
Soil vs. Dirt
What’s the difference between soil and dirt? Dirt in the Northwest is a porous combination of clay and sand, with an emphasis on clay. Dirt is biologically inactive, and should not be used for gardening without amending it and adding essential nutrients that plants need in order to grow. Soil is a mixture of organic material and weathered rock fragments that become productive when fertilizer and compost are added. Soil extends from a few inches to six feet below the earth’s surface. It supports all plant and animal life.
This is the time of year to prepare your soil, and add compost and mulch. Always follow directions on the fertilizer package to avoid over fertilizing, which can be more damaging than not fertilizing at all. Slow release fertilizers are best; they utilize bacterial microbes in your soil, making more effective use of the fertilizer. A win-win for your garden.
The King Conservation District offers free soil testing for King County residents. A certified lab will test up to five samples for major nutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium, pH balance, organic matter and micronutrients). Mail your soil samples, and receive the results with specific recommendations for your garden in approximately three weeks. For information on how to collect and package samples, and where to send them, check out HYPERLINK "http://www.kingcd.org/pdf/fact-sheet-soil-testing.pdf or call 425-282-1905" www.kingcd.org/pdf/fact-sheet-soil-testing.pdf or call 425-282-1905.
Planning Your Vegetable Garden
Our cool, wet springs make it challenging to start many plants outdoors. If the soil is too soggy and cold, seeds will rot and fail to germinate. When starting edibles and annual flowers from seeds it is important to carefully read the directions on the seed package. This information includes planting depth, spacing, optimal temperature, length of time for germination and growth to maturity, and watering instructions.
Starting seeds indoors requires a warm, sunny location. Too little light produces seedlings that are leggy, weak, and vulnerable to disease and die off. Use a seed starting mixture that is light and contains peat. Seedling mixtures actually contain no soil.
Plants that can be started indoors include summer edibles such as broccoli, cucumbers, cauliflower, celery, collard, kale, eggplant, Swiss chard, squash, melons, peppers and tomatoes, and warm weather annuals like zinnias and sunflowers. Transplant peppers, celery and tomatoes outside in late May or June, after hardening them off by bringing pots outside during the day and back inside at night to protect tender plants from the spring chill.
March is also a good time to plant herbs, onion and chive plants, and seedlings of broccoli, celery, cauliflower, and chard directly into your graden.
Seeds of cool weather vegetables can be sown outdoors as soon as spring begins to warm up. Peas, beets, potatoes, spinach, radishes, chard and onions are good early season choices. We’re anticipating (and hoping for) a warmer spring than last year, when we lost all our peas to cold, wet soil.
Bare Root Trees and Shrubs
Bare root trees and shrubs are available now at local nurseries. The term “bare root” refers to any plant with an exposed root system. Planting roots directly into the ground allows them to spread freely, promoting better absorption of water and nutrients. If you purchase a tree or shrub in burlap, remove the burlap before planting to give the roots adequate room to spread.
To ensure their survival, bare root plants must be planted as soon as possible. When purchasing a bare root plant, ask for planting instructions.
Our favorite bare root plant is our beloved corkscrew willow. The 5’ shrub we bought soon became a healthy, 20’ tree with feathery branches that danced in the breeze.
Plant Summer Bulbs Now
Though summer seems far away, it may brighten your mood to plant summer bulbs now. Various varieties of dahlias, gladiolas, daylilies, tuberous begonias, liatris and cannas are available now at Garden Centers. Our favorite is the tropical look of tigridia, which can be planted in April for a summer bloom that is well worth the wait.
It’s not too late to prune and fertilize your roses to keep them lovely and blooming continuously.
Send Us Your Favorites
We often share the names of our favorite plants with readers. We invite you, our neighbors, to send us the names of some of your favorites. We will share our list of Ballard Favorites in our August column.
Remember, a healthy dose of organic compost will transform your garden from “dishing the dirt” to “dishing the soil”.
Beginning in early May, Ballard Master Gardeners will return to the Ballard Sunday Farmers Market to answer your gardening questions.
See you at the Market!
Jeff and Eileen Bidwell are King County Master Gardeners and long-time Ballard residents. You can find the Master Gardener Plant Answer Clinic at the Ballard Sunday Farmers Market every Sunday from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m., May 1st through September 25th. Read past articles, here.